Energy Suspension Polyurethane Bushings Review - S14 240sx

[p0onsta]

So over the past couple of years, I've done quite a few things to my car. Seeing as to how much of the rubber should be pretty old by now, I opted to replace them with polyurethane pieces from Energy Suspension.

Tension Rod
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Most 240sx's have liquid-filled tension rod bushings which are now blown and leaky. Mine were flexing beyond belief, but were not yet leaking. I opted to replace these bushings to get better steering feel and to have a more aggressive caster.
Installation
Installation consisted of burning out the old bushings with a torch, hacksawing the outer bushing sleeve, and then chiseling out the sleeve. After deburring the insides from the saw and chisel, generously apply lube to all contact surfaces. A small vice will suffice for installation. After bolting it back in to specs as per the FSM, I went out for a test drive.
Test Drive
Steering feel did not improve by much, nor did harshness. As a matter of fact, there was no perceivable difference in harshness. However, the steering wheel did get a good bit heavier. I did not take before and after caster measurements, but around the city streets, after turning the wheel, it is much quicker to return to center on its own.

Front Lower Control Arm
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Rubber supposedly dries out over time. Like tires, which dry rot in 4 years or less, the life of the bushings were nearing their end. Granted, the rubber composition is different and the actual area that sees the elements is small, it has been 14 years since they were new. I opted to replace these bushings to get better road feel and to have a more predictable reaction to road imperfections.
Installation
Installation consisted of burning out the old bushings with a torch; the outer metal sleeves are reused. The arms do not need to be removed from the car for this process. This will hopefully keep your balljoints in good shape. After cleaning up the insides from the left-over rubber, generously apply lube to all contact surfaces. A small vice will suffice for installation. After bolting it back in to specs as per the FSM, I went out for a test drive.
Test Drive
Road feel improved by quite a bit, but harshness was unchanged. As a matter of fact, there was no perceivable difference in harshness. As the front of the vehicle went over bumps and other imperfections, the feedback was alot more solid and consistent. As a whole, the car now felt more confident and composed whether on smooth roads, cobblestones, or NYC potholes.

Rear Suspension Kit
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The rationale for replacing these is similar to the one for replacing the ones for the Front Lower Control Arms. However, this was put off because it seemed much more difficult at first. And difficult it was, but achievable nonetheless. After the improvements I got from the Front Lower Control Arm Bushings, I was set on replacing these to have even better feel for the road, and to also complete my process of replacing all the soft rubber bushings on the car.
Installation
Before removal, make sure to mark the alignment washers so that you can limp to the alignment shop when finished with installation. The Rear Upper Control Arm must be removed before the Traction Rod. Installation consisted of burning out the old bushings with a torch, hacksawing the outer sleeves, and then chiseling them out. The hubs and the Rear Lower Control Arms do not need to be removed from the car for this process. The Traction Rod, Rear Upper Control Arm, and the Rear Toe Rod do need to be removed. This will hopefully keep your balljoints in good shape. After cleaning up the insides from burrs left over by the hacksaw and chisel, generously apply lube to all contact surfaces. A small vice will suffice for installation of bushings into the removed arms. Installation for the hub and Rear Lower Control Arm will be much easier with a c-clamp. When bolting the arms back on, make sure to bolt on the Rear Upper Control Arm after the Traction Rod. After bolting it back in to specs as per the FSM, I went out for a test drive.
Test Drive
Road feel improved tremendously, and harshness went up a bit as well. I can feel almost every single imperfection and elevation change on the road. At certain times, the harshness wouldn't be too bad. As a matter of fact, during the larger potholes and speedbumps, lower your head from hitting the roof and brace yourself against your seats to save your kidneys. As the rear of the vehicle went over bumps and other imperfections, the feedback was alot more solid and consistent. Wheel hop as a whole was almost completely gone, as long as the shocks and springs are properly tuned. As a whole, the car now felt more confident and composed on smooth roads, and cobblestones, but on NYC potholes, be prepared to be jostled around. For some, this car will no longer be a comfy Daily Driver.
If I had to do it again, I would make sure to source the Nissan "Tool" for bushing removal and installation. It's a small hand tool and according to my FSM, is available from Nissan. I would also go for the Nismo hard rubber bushings. Yea, it will wear out sooner than the polyurethane components, but I wouldn't mind it taking another 5 or so years to wear out. The ride should also be smoother and more compliant as well, while offering ~90% of the improvements of the Energy Suspension pieces. Nismo theoretically knows what they're doing, right?

Steering Rack & Pinion
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Rubber dries out, and I'm a sucker for steering and road feel.
Installation
Installation consisted of unbolting the brackets which held the steering rack on, and removing the bushings. They are slitted, so removal is rather easy. Just make sure to clean up the surface, and then insert the new bushings. They will leave a gap, but this gap will close as the brackets are tightened down. Because this is not a moving contact surface, no lube is used. After bolting it back in to specs as per the FSM, I went out for a test drive.
Test Drive
Steering feel improved by quite a bit, but harshness was largely unchanged. The steering now had much less freeplay, and is more direct. Bumps that were felt in the road translated to little jolts up and down at the steering wheel. As the front of the vehicle went over bumps and other imperfections, the feedback was alot more solid and consistent. Over the bigger potholes, the wheel shakes alot, which can be distracting to some. Overall, I'd say these are good.

Front & Rear Anti-Roll Bar
Advertised Features
Rubber dries out, and Anti-Roll Bars are a good thing, especially when they have limited freeplay.
Installation
Installation consisted of unbolting the brackets and endlinks which hold the bars on, and removing the bushings. They are slitted, so removal is rather easy. Just make sure to clean up the surface, and then insert the new bushings. They will leave a gap, but this gap will close as the brackets are tightened down. The only moving surface is the D-Bushing for the bar to subframe/chassis, so only lube that part. After bolting it back in to specs as per the FSM, I went out for a test drive.
Test Drive
This might be placebo, but the car seems to settle down sooner in a turn. It's hard to describe, but there was definitely an improvement in my eyes. The car feels a little more confident now, and there are absolutely no increases in harshness. Even if the old dry-rotted OEM bushings are okay, just looking at and comparing old vs. new will make you believe that it's a good idea to change them. Overall, I'd say these are good.

I've done quite a few other road feel and NVH mods as well, so keep an eye out for those reviews. For now, I'm done with the Energy Suspension parts. I believe I've got all I wanted from them.